Milwaukee, WIChinese

Sze Chuan centers the bold flavors of Chengdu and Sichuan in a broad West Allis menu. Pork dumplings, mapo tofu, twice cooked pork, cumin lamb, and chili pepper fish balance heat with aroma and texture. Dry pot cauliflower and cold pork belly reward a table willing to range beyond familiar takeout dishes and share several contrasting plates.

Fortune maintains two useful tracks: a Cantonese leaning Chinese menu and a familiar Chinese American selection. Barbecue pork, ginger beef, salt and pepper shrimp, braised eggplant, and seafood noodles reveal the kitchen's range. The dining room is especially rewarding for groups because a large table can move between roasted meats, vegetables, noodles, and crisp fried dishes.

Fusion Cafe brings Dongbei cooking to West Allis with handmade dumplings, beef pancake, and guobaorou, the crisp sweet and sour pork associated with northeastern China. Pork belly with napa cabbage and glass noodles adds a slower, comforting counterpoint. House noodles and substantial portions make the restaurant well suited to sharing, particularly for diners new to the region's food.

Momo Mee has a broad Asian menu, but its Chinese dishes provide much of the restaurant's character. Soup filled xiao long bao, gua bao, Cantonese clay pots, and house noodle dan dan mian cover several regions and textures. The polished Walker's Point room is an easy setting for mixing dumplings, noodles, and larger plates across one shared meal.

China Gourmet gives downtown diners a menu that extends far beyond the standard lunch combination. Taiwanese escargot in spicy Sichuan sauce offers an unusual starting point, while Peking duck can anchor a larger table. The Wells Street dining room is convenient for theater nights and workday meals, with enough depth to reward a deliberate dinner visit.