Abuelita's

This South Richmond counter serves Mexican guisos, handmade corn tortillas and, when available, banana-leaf tamales. The tamales share a menu with slow-simmered birria and posole, and the food comes out on cafeteria trays in a room that draws families and nearby workers. Order the banana-leaf tamales when they are on the hot line. Their availability varies, so they are a dish to look for alongside the stews rather than assume will be there every visit.

Picks from Richmond Magazine and The Infatuation

Abuelita's, on the Southside, is known for homemade guisos, deeply comforting Mexican stews and braises whose selection rotates daily. Families and nearby office workers load red cafeteria trays with them and with expertly made corn tortillas, and more often than not the mother-and-daughter owners are both cooking. On a lucky day there is slow-simmered birria or posole; in sub-freezing weather the place is the obvious answer, and the red pozole with pork bone and hominy will cure what ails you. Order the red pozole.

Picks from Richmond Magazine, The Infatuation, and Style Weekly