El Milagro Azteca

Executive chef Carlos Hernandez makes the quesabirria here from his mother's decades-old recipe, and George Mahe walked through it: brisket and sirloin cubed, marinated overnight in a stock of whole cumin, clove, peppercorn and garlic with toasted pureed guajillo, then pressure-cooked at least eight hours until it nearly shreds itself. Corn tortillas are heated in broth oil with jack and Chihuahua cheese. Order three and dip them in the consome.

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Executive chef Carlos Hernandez, a Michoacan native and 26-year St. Louisan, builds the quesabirria here on his mother's decades-old birria recipe. George Mahe reports brisket and sirloin marinated overnight in a guajillo-and-whole-spice stock then pressure-cooked at least eight hours until it nearly shreds itself, with jack and Chihuahua cheeses melted into corn tortillas on the flattop. Order three to an order and dip them in the consome. The tree-covered patio is the other draw.

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