Rochester, NYIndian

Thali of India sits in the Win-Jeff Plaza at Winton and Jefferson roads and draws first-generation immigrant families, suburban curry fans and students from the nearby colleges, (585) Magazine's Mark Gillespie writes. The long list of baltis sets it apart, served in a festive copper pail. Order a balti, or the thali the restaurant is named for, six flavors arranged around a dome of rice.

Tandoor of India sits on Jefferson Road in Henrietta, at 376 Jefferson Rd, and (585) Magazine lists it among the Rochester area's Indian restaurants. It is a suburban dining room working the northern Indian repertoire. Order from the tandoor the kitchen is named for, and take naan blistered in the same oven alongside it.

A lot of the Indian food in Rochester comes from the north, CITY Magazine's Chris Thompson writes, so Hyderabad Biryani House in Henrietta Plaza is the south Indian answer. It is named for the capital of Telangana, where owners Ravi and Bhargavi Godavarthi are from, and it followed their first restaurant in Buffalo. The interior is dark and evening-lit even at midday. Order the biryani the house is named for.

Amaya Indian Cuisine is a Brighton Indian restaurant on South Clinton Avenue, listed by (585) Magazine among the Rochester area's Indian kitchens. It runs a full menu of northern Indian curries, breads and tandoor plates in a suburban plaza room. Order a curry with naan from the tandoor, and a side of rice to carry the sauce.

Royal of India took the Park Point space where Asian fusion Wok With Me Too had been, CITY Magazine's Chris Thompson writes, repainting the walls a muted dandelion with merlot trim over mahogany-stained tables. Plenty of Henrietta restaurants run the same staples, he notes, but the chicken and vegetable momo, the Nepali-spiced chow mein and the thukpa make this one stand out. Order the momo, six steamed dumplings with a spicy tomato sesame sauce.