St. Louis, MOPork Steak

David Sandusky moved from fine dining into barbecue and runs BEAST with his wife, Meggan. Its fork-tender pork steak helped establish the smokehouse alongside brisket, ribs and pulled pork. Order the pork steak with a fountain Ski.

Doc Richardson's Edwardsville smokehouse appeared on Barbecue News Magazine's Best of the Best list five consecutive years. In the Trace on the Parkway development, it serves a 32-ounce, fork-tender pork steak with a glaze enriched by its juices. The menu marks it 'while they last'; ask whether the Doc Rib special is running.

This family-run Crystal City smokehouse makes Memphis-style barbecue in a scratch kitchen with blues music. Its St. Louis pork steak is thick and fork-tender under a dry rub, with sauce available. Add fries with queso, chives and bacon, and save room for homemade bread pudding or cobbler.

At this East St. Louis counter on St. Clair Avenue, order a thick, tender pork steak with onion rings. The cut comes from pork shoulder and can range from half an inch to an inch and a half thick.

The Mannecke family took over a small Florissant storefront with three dollars and built a following for smoked meats. Order the Fork Steak Sandwich, a tender pork steak on a soft, warm bun, with a one-pound baked potato topped with butter and cheese or with brisket.