St. Louis, MOVietnamese

Lee Tran opened Mai Lee on Delmar Boulevard nearly 40 years ago as a Chinese restaurant, then added Vietnamese dishes from home, introducing many St. Louis diners to pho and goi cuon. Her son Qui, also of Nudo House, now runs the Brentwood room. Order salt-and-pepper calamari and mango sticky rice with warm sweetened coconut milk.

This University City original shares a menu with a later South Grand location: eleven beef and six chicken pho versions, vegan and vegetarian soups, spring rolls and smoothies, with menu photos. Order Pho Tai Chin with eye of round and brisket, or the soupless Pho Kho Dac Biet.

Qui Tran of Mai Lee and Marie-Anne Velasco opened this noodle shop after years of planning. Its compact menu includes spring rolls, kimchi, vegetable sides, two banh mi and four pho varieties. Order pho and ramen.

Julie Shih moved DD Mau from its decade-old Allen Avenue home to the former Weber's Front Row building in Webster Groves. The 6,000-square-foot space has an event room. Order roti-shell tacos and wings from its fast-casual menu.

The Trinh family reopened the former Pho Grand space on South Grand as Grand Bistro, keeping Vietnamese family recipes while giving the restaurant a new chapter. The pho remains a draw; the Vietnamese chicken lettuce wraps bring a light, savory crunch, and the pan-fried noodles have crisp edges with tender vegetables. Start with the lettuce wraps, then order pho or noodles.